“The fish is fine, but here fine isn’t good enough. You try it and go yeah, that’s a piece of fried fish in batter. But you wouldn’t tip your head on one side, dab an eye and admit undying love, as you might over, say, a plank of the same at the Magpie Cafe, Whitby, where it arrives looking like a golden galleon in sail. Given the lineage and the price- the smallest, when not taken away, is £12- you need to be able to feel you can leap to your feet and applaud.”
The Observer Magazine 14th April 2019 pp29-31
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