“A new Mayfair joint has opened with the proud announcement that its menu will include a dish costing £3000. Apparently, it involves a bucket load of caviar with a brooding sense of inadequacy on the side. I’m not naming the place, or the chef or the PR company responsible for promoting it, because that’s exactly what they want. All three should be utterly ashamed of themselves. And if they’re not, no worries because I’m ashamed of them.”
Jay Rayner The Observer magazine 7th August 2022 p28
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